blue switches without click

[tauburn]

I have already read the other old threads on this topic and none were helpful, but on my filco majestouch 2, tons of keys stopped clicking. i'm seriously unimpressed with the quality of cherry switches. i've only had this keyboard for a few months. nothing in liquid form has come within 20 feet of it. i sprayed an air can in every angle i possibly could. what should i do to fix this. there is very little continuity of click feel and sound between each switch.

[machmkv]

I just picked up a quickfire rapid with cherry blues and have the same crap.  Half the the time my spacebar when pressed from the left side doesn't produce a click but works perfectly fine on the right side.  And also half keys on the board doesn't produce a solid click rather silent loose click.

This is my third quickfire rapid board from the local store and all of are having this problem.  On one of them, several keys did not make any clicks at all. Not sure if this is a problem with coolermaster or just specifically with cherry blue switches.  I'm going to stick with linear red switches.

[tauburn]

I just picked up a quickfire rapid with cherry blues and have the same crap.  Half the the time my spacebar when pressed from the left side doesn't produce a click but works perfectly fine on the right side.  And also half keys on the board doesn't produce a solid click rather silent loose click.

This is my third quickfire rapid board from the local store and all of are having this problem.  On one of them, several keys did not make any clicks at all. Not sure if this is a problem with coolermaster or just specifically with cherry blue switches.  I'm going to stick with linear red switches.

my filco's spacebar is like that too.

[Germiphene]

Open her up and take a look under the hood.  Might be something stuck, or impairing the mechanism.  Can't hurt!

[rowdy]

The click is produced entirely within the switch housing itself.

It is unlikely that anything like dust would have gotted into the switch, unless you are in an exceptionally dusty enrivonment.

Some of my MX blue switches have gone the other way - they did not click at all when I first got the keyboard, now they click (sometimes).

Maybe it was a bad batch of switches?  This is not a problem I have heard of before, as the switches should last 50 million keystrokes each and thus should not so easily wear out so quickly.

Is it still under warranty?  Can you RMA it?

[tp4tissue]

The click is produced entirely within the switch housing itself.

It is unlikely that anything like dust would have gotted into the switch, unless you are in an exceptionally dusty enrivonment.

Some of my MX blue switches have gone the other way - they did not click at all when I first got the keyboard, now they click (sometimes).

Maybe it was a bad batch of switches?  This is not a problem I have heard of before, as the switches should last 50 million keystrokes each and thus should not so easily wear out so quickly.

Is it still under warranty?  Can you RMA it?

Hmm.. seems like more and more complaints about Nonclicks recently..

This makes me think perhaps something is wrong with the soldering they're doing.. Probably melting the insides of the switches.. overheated the housing.

With the housing warped. the metal "reset" bar might be slightly tilted, so it doesn't "pop" the click white mechanism on the shaft.

[Xingularity]

I have the same issue with my DK9087. The F6 and arrow keys have a really wimpy click, which is sometimes not there at all.

I didn't bother to RMA it since it was a limited edition which sold out pretty quick.

[sth]

i'm seriously unimpressed with the quality of cherry switches.

you learn quickly young padawan

[Leslieann]

I blame the switch design, too many tiny parts, with not enough precision.

Blues are sort of a compromise design in my eyes. The guides have to be shorter to make room for the part that clicks and it relies on near perfect alignment for things to work. Unfortunately the sorter guides make that hard to achieve.

The theory about overheating during soldering could also not only be true, but be exaggerated on blues because of their compromised design.

[tp4tissue]

I blame the switch design, too many tiny parts, with not enough precision.

Blues are sort of a compromise design in my eyes. The guides have to be shorter to make room for the part that clicks and it relies on near perfect alignment for things to work. Unfortunately the sorter guides make that hard to achieve.

The theory about overheating during soldering could also not only be true, but be exaggerated on blues because of their compromised design.

In a way, that makes a "fully" working MxBlue keyboard somewhat of a Gem no? HAHAHA

lol, that aside,, yea, I do feel the mx blue switch has unnecessarily complicated parts.

[rowdy]

I have a fully working Ducky Shine with MX blues (except for space, which s MX green)

(I also have a second with a couple of partially clicky switches.)

[ValerieV]

This is my biggest complaint with cherry mx blues. My DAS, POKER and QuickFire have all had that problem with at least one switch. It is annoying and i hate it when the manufacturer says that it is caused by dirt or dust. It is a faulty switch. And it really pisses me off because it always a key that is pressed often, not a tilde or something that is never pressed! Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.

[1391406]

Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.

Very little chance of that since they're not clicky.

[uJalled]

I recently bought a filco as well and it sounds and performs great. I must have gotten lucky

[Leslieann]

This is my biggest complaint with cherry mx blues. My DAS, POKER and QuickFire have all had that problem with at least one switch. It is annoying and i hate it when the manufacturer says that it is caused by dirt or dust. It is a faulty switch. And it really pisses me off because it always a key that is pressed often, not a tilde or something that is never pressed! Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.

I wonder how they think dust and dirt could actually get in there in enough quantity and size to cause an issue in such a relatively short amount of time. Cherry did a pretty good job sealing the switch off from the holes opposite the switch mechanism. On top of that you have the key cap, and possibly a plate covering it.

I would love a manufacturer tell me that, I would have them show me how it could happen and then remind them it's their product and that they need to fix it.

[Saturn]

Odd that I've only been hearing about this happening recently.  Or has this always been an issue with blue switches?

I was thinking of trying blues next since it's been a while since i've had a clicky board, but after reading all this stuff I might reconsider.

[tp4tissue]

Odd that I've only been hearing about this happening recently.  Or has this always been an issue with blue switches?

I was thinking of trying blues next since it's been a while since i've had a clicky board, but after reading all this stuff I might reconsider.

This is a definitely a "new" complaint people has had... I've not encountered this myself through 3 different cherry mx boards.

Equivalent of "Filco Ping"

BTW... my board pings like crazy. Hurrrrrrr 

[rowdy]

Not really new, I've been hearing of it for around 6 months.

Of my two boards with MX blues, one has a couple of switches that are less clicky.  All other switches are fine, and none seem to be losing their click.

If anything the less clicky switches seem to be getting more clicky, which is a good ting

[tp4tissue]

Not really new, I've been hearing of it for around 6 months.

Of my two boards with MX blues, one has a couple of switches that are less clicky.  All other switches are fine, and none seem to be losing their click.

If anything the less clicky switches seem to be getting more clicky, which is a good ting

Ok, see this is where we lose too much precision and get into the "summer of Ping... part 3"

[WhiteFireDragon]

I've worked on a lot of keyboard, and only 2 keys from 1 keyboard has this issue where the clicking is intermittent. OP, if you have "tons of keys" that have this problem, I'd say you're pretty unlucky. Not every board with mx blues will have this problem.

[VesperSAINT]

I think this is a more recent issue. I have a Cherry MX Green keyboard where one or two of my switches has this issue out of the box, one being bad enough to the point where there can be no click, depending on how I press it. My friend had to get his brand new Cherry MX Blue keyboard replaced twice because they both had multiple bad switches out of the box.

I honestly think that it's a mixture of bad luck with a drop in quality control among all companies in today's market. I miss the good ol' 90's. My older keyboard with the older "sky blue" switches came with all perfect switches and is still running like a champion after years of use.

[BearManJim]

This is a definitely a "new" complaint people has had...

I beg to differ. You saw in my The difficult second keyboard... thread that 1391406 went through 5 different Razor Widows instore before finding one that sounded and felt consistent. Some keys didn't click at all. That was eighteen months ago.

When I bought the first QPAD MK-80 back in November and encountered two silent keys, I searched on here for related issues and found this thread;

So I bought a CM QuickFire rapid with blues and I love it (only a few weeks old). That being said, I've noticed that while typing some keys make a much more pronounced click than the others. In fact, some dont even sound like they're clicking at all sometimes. They still register though.

I've extended the search and found some that are even older;

My das which I intend to keep despite the rollover problems has one switch that is in-audible.
I wonder if there is a way to fix it without invalidating my warranty.

one key on my das s pro only clicks if i hit the very bottom left edge of it. if i press it in the center like i usually would it does not click. is there any way i can fix this?

So, my right Alt's switch on my Filco has gone wonky. It actuates correctly, but it doesn't click - either in terms of sound or tactility. I tried pressing the switch down and airdusting into it, but that did nothing. It's definitely not a keycap issue. Any suggestions?

The last thread however also had a happy ending;

I fixed it. I was looking at the switch and I noticed that there was a gap in the bottom on the left hand side, through which a hair was stuck. I removed the hair with a tweezers and the switch started clicking again.

If the OP's hair is as lustrous as his avatar of Ron Swanson suggests, it may be relevant?

[Bry]

Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.

What sound?

[tauburn]

ugh. i really didn't feel like having to open it but i guess i  have no choice. i really wish i had a key removing tool

[tauburn]

i dont even know how to open this thing. there are no visible screws. i hope i dont have to tear the rubber pads off to open it

[tp4tissue]

i dont even know how to open this thing. there are no visible screws. i hope i dont have to tear the rubber pads off to open it

No you don't, 1 screw under the quality check sticker.

Pretty sure it voids the warranty though.  )

But the only SURE WAY to fix it is to buy a "new switch" and replace the "non click" one...

Diatec Will send you replacement switches for free, if you're angry enough..

Practice your angry voice 

[lazerpointer]

I blame the switch design, too many tiny parts, with not enough precision.

This. Cherry blues are a great idea but I myself have experienced the above crappiness of MX Blues. I can however vouch for the other Cherry switches - no problems there.

[tauburn]

does anyone know who to contact at diatec for something like this? their site has little to no info that i could see.

[rootwyrm]

http://www.diatec.co.jp/en/aboutus.php#CU

Have at it...

[Loligagger]

I've had this sort of thing happen with my mx whites as well. A few switches seemed to spontaneously lose much of their click, and feel mushy in comparison to others. I have enough extra switches to replace them if it happens again, but it's still disconcerting.

[tauburn]

http://www.diatec.co.jp/en/aboutus.php#CU

Have at it...

I'm going to be so ****ing polite. they will not know what hit them. The chopsticks are going to fly out of their hands and hit the gong behind them!

[VesperSAINT]

I'm going to be so ****ing polite. they will not know what hit them. The chopsticks are going to fly out of their hands and hit the gong behind them!

uhhhh... lolwut

[firebt]

Weird.  Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?

I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.

The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues. 

I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something.  I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed.  I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound.  After some lube, voila.  Smoother than my other stock switches.

Bottom line:  Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred).  I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism. 

Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.

However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.

[tauburn]

Weird.  Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?

I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.

The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues. 

I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something.  I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed.  I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound.  After some lube, voila.  Smoother than my other stock switches.

Bottom line:  Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred).  I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism. 

Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.

However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.

i sent diatec an email. i'm not replacing the switches myself when it's less than 30 days old.

[firebt]

Weird.  Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?

I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.

The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues. 

I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something.  I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed.  I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound.  After some lube, voila.  Smoother than my other stock switches.

Bottom line:  Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred).  I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism. 

Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.

However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.

i sent diatec an email. i'm not replacing the switches myself when it's less than 30 days old.

For sure.  You will have to wait a pretty darn long time though.  I would personally just have them send me a bunch of new switches, like 10 of them, so i can just replace them for free over the years at any time.  And realize that if you learn how to do this once it it's really awesome since you can install whatever switches you want into whatever keys, which is pretty cool. And later, for backlit keyboards, you can install whatever color LEDs into whichever slots as well.

[tufty]

Anyone know if the browns can lose their sound? Thanks.

What sound?

this one

[tp4tissue]

Weird.  Possibly you have been mashing on them a little hard and maybe it got stuck or something?

I highly doubt soldering would damage the switch...I just desoldered and removed some switches for clean and some lube due to some damn ginger ale i spilled.

The plastic is tough, meaning that even excessive heat does not warp the plastic, I know because my soldering iron has tapped the plastic parts and have had some pretty high heat applied near the switches with no issues. 

I personally think that perhaps Cherry didn't lube them well enough or something.  I only say this because the last time I cleaned out my switches with soap and water to get out all the grime, and I put it all together, and I noticed that I could distinctly hear the spring compressing and decompressing, kind of like an old spring bed.  I realized it was the spring grabbing on the plunger and then rubbing against it causing that sound.  After some lube, voila.  Smoother than my other stock switches.

Bottom line:  Take it apart, clean it up, and try to run some high end grease or lube (full synthetic, no petroleum, PTFE preferred).  I'm almost certain that it should free up the clicky mechanism. 

Personally, RMA would take forever. I would just order some new switches and install them, or try to fix my old ones with the method i mentioned above.

However, I have heard that lubing blues can drastically reduce the click, so I mean, try one, and see how it goes. Plus you can always take it apart and clean it out anyway.

i sent diatec an email. i'm not replacing the switches myself when it's less than 30 days old.

For sure.  You will have to wait a pretty darn long time though.  I would personally just have them send me a bunch of new switches, like 10 of them, so i can just replace them for free over the years at any time.  And realize that if you learn how to do this once it it's really awesome since you can install whatever switches you want into whatever keys, which is pretty cool. And later, for backlit keyboards, you can install whatever color LEDs into whichever slots as well.

Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...

[rootwyrm]

Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...

[tp4tissue]

Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...

Show Image

You got your Glue stick vs Solder

You have to Heat both to melting point

You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..

You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies

[KuhnTang]

Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...

Show Image

You got your Glue stick vs Solder

You have to Heat both to melting point

You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..

You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies

You mad bro?

[tp4tissue]

Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...

Show Image

You got your Glue stick vs Solder

You have to Heat both to melting point

You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..

You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies

You mad bro?

YES!

that's right sucka what now. you done F#$%ed up.

[zer0]

Remove the keycap, press the key in, drop one drop of Zippo lighter gasoline, for them Zippos, leave for a couple of minutes, press the switch a couple of times and voila worked for me like a charm, the switch is clicking and working like it should.
I read that trick somewhere in here.

[KuhnTang]

Soldering is honestly the EXACT same as hot glue... Only difference, do NOT breath the smoke...

Show Image

You got your Glue stick vs Solder

You have to Heat both to melting point

You have to bring 2 pieces of the things you want to join Together, and dab the "stuff" on..

You're the stupid one for not seeing the analogies

You mad bro?

YES!

that's right sucka what now. you done F#$%ed up.

Ha

[Leslieann]

I was transferring my Jailhouse Blues from my Race to my Filco last night and had a chance to experiment with this issue.

I had nearly new Blue stems and a complete set of brand new switch housings that had never been installed.
Out of 90 housings, 3 of them had no tactile feel to them, and unless the tactile bump works, you will not get the click sound as it's what fires the bottom half of the switch down to make the click sound. No matter what stem or top I used, they simply wouldn't work properly. Some also had more feel than others, and again, switching the stem and tops changed nothing, it was only the housing/base that mattered.

Looking inside the switch, they appear perfectly fine, but it turns out that the difference between working and not is extremely small, less than 1mm. Sometimes you can see it, sometimes you can't.

It's a manufacturing issue, specifically how the gold piece is inserted into the plastic.
Depending on how it's placed, will also determine the tactility and noise level.

[tp4tissue]

I was transferring my Jailhouse Blues from my Race to my Filco last night and had a chance to experiment with this issue.

I had nearly new Blue stems and a complete set of brand new switch housings that had never been installed.
Out of 90 housings, 3 of them had no tactile feel to them, and unless the tactile bump works, you will not get the click sound as it's what fires the bottom half of the switch down to make the click sound. No matter what stem or top I used, they simply wouldn't work properly. Some also had more feel than others, and again, switching the stem and tops changed nothing, it was only the housing/base that mattered.

Looking inside the switch, they appear perfectly fine, but it turns out that the difference between working and not is extremely small, less than 1mm. Sometimes you can see it, sometimes you can't.

It's a manufacturing issue, specifically how the gold piece is inserted into the plastic.
Depending on how it's placed, will also determine the tactility and noise level.

So..... it's "not" overheating issue when soldering? I'd think that heat could cause the metal clip to Tilt inside the housing if the holes they're stuck into got "HOT."

[Leslieann]

So..... it's "not" overheating issue when soldering? I'd think that heat could cause the metal clip to Tilt inside the housing if the holes they're stuck into got "HOT."

That could effect them as well, but these had never been soldered to a pcb or exposed to any heat or anything and were like this. All I did was pull apart a brand new clear switch that I recently got from 7Bit, swapped stems and springs, and they didn't work right.



Edit:
Out of curiosity I put the clear stem and springs back in, they too had no tactility. Again, these are brand new and never attached to a board.

[machmkv]

It's still so unacceptable these costar manufacturers are willing to put these bad switches in the keyboards and sell it off.  I'm mainly talking about coolermaster because they need to get their QC in check for selling a bunch of broken keyboards.

[tp4tissue]

It's still so unacceptable these costar manufacturers are willing to put these bad switches in the keyboards and sell it off.  I'm mainly talking about coolermaster because they need to get their QC in check for selling a bunch of broken keyboards.

They can't QC the individual switches without a HUGE added cost..

Think what they'd have to do..  Press 87keys and LISTEN to them....

they can do this with "people" or "machine"

With people, it's probably WAY too slow...


"Machine", they'd need one that produce minimal mechanical noise, and separate it from the rest of the production line, which is normally LOUD AS HELL...  ) )

Completely Unpossible...   the best they can do is confirm that each switch "works" and they do do this..

They're better off just shipping out the broken board, then offering replacements...

[Leslieann]

It's still so unacceptable these costar manufacturers are willing to put these bad switches in the keyboards and sell it off.  I'm mainly talking about coolermaster because they need to get their QC in check for selling a bunch of broken keyboards.

I spoke about this elsewhere, but basically, quality control is a HUGE problem in China.
I know a few who have done manufacturing there and it's like working with the mafia. The phrase "buyer beware" has never been more true.

Basically if you don't specify EXACTLY what you want, for every step of the way, otherwise you can pretty much expect a sub-par product every time. They know it, and they also know that as soon as you leave, another company will be knocking and looking for cheap manufacturing.

You could order a standardized grade 8 bolt, and the manufacturer will buy grade 5 material and label it grade 8, this you expect. However, what often happens is that when the manufacturer asked for grade 5, the supplier sold him grade 3.

Scarily enough, this is actually what has happened in the North American aviation industry. Boxes of these fake bolts got into the supply lines.

[VesperSAINT]

I spoke about this elsewhere, but basically, quality control is a HUGE problem in China.
I know a few who have done manufacturing there and it's like working with the mafia. The phrase "buyer beware" has never been more true.

Basically if you don't specify EXACTLY what you want, for every step of the way, otherwise you can pretty much expect a sub-par product every time. They know it, and they also know that as soon as you leave, another company will be knocking and looking for cheap manufacturing.

You could order a standardized grade 8 bolt, and the manufacturer will buy grade 5 material and label it grade 8, this you expect. However, what often happens is that when the manufacturer asked for grade 5, the supplier sold him grade 3.

Scarily enough, this is actually what has happened in the North American aviation industry. Boxes of these fake bolts got into the supply lines.

Now THAT is something to think about... Not even funny when you think about it...

On another note, you say "China" but does that include Taiwan?