Author Topic: Plastic keyboard covers.  (Read 22249 times)

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Offline medvednic

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Plastic keyboard covers.
« on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 02:42:13 »
Hello, where is it possible to purchase keyboard covers like the ones on the following video?
for a QFR Stealth...
 
IBM Model M | CM Strom QFR Stealth MX Brown

Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 03:38:33 »
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
More
LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
WTB/WTS/WTT ---->
More

Offline medvednic

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 05:01:24 »
30$ for a piece of plastic? lol expensive...
is there any suggested alternative methods?
 
IBM Model M | CM Strom QFR Stealth MX Brown

Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 05:12:25 »
30$ for a piece of plastic? lol expensive...
is there any suggested alternative methods?

This is one that I have been looking at for myself.  I'm not sure where you live, but if it's in the US you will have to wait up to a month to get it by mail.

http://www.banggood.com/Acrylic-Keyboard-Protector-Dust-Cover-For-87-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-87811.html
« Last Edit: Sat, 29 March 2014, 22:13:28 by CommonCurt »
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
More
LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
WTB/WTS/WTT ---->
More

Offline rowdy

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 05:35:39 »
I use a tea towel :p
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline medvednic

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 05:42:16 »
30$ for a piece of plastic? lol expensive...
is there any suggested alternative methods?

This is one that I have been looking at for myself.  I'm sure where you live, but if it's in the US you will have to wait up to a month to get it by mail.

http://www.banggood.com/Acrylic-Keyboard-Protector-Dust-Cover-For-87-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-87811.html

Looks even better in terms of compatibility with different size.
 
IBM Model M | CM Strom QFR Stealth MX Brown

Offline ideus

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #6 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 06:33:20 »
Is there a dust cover that fits the Leo 660M?

Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #7 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 06:56:23 »
Is there a dust cover that fits the Leo 660M?

Not that I have ever seen. You would probably have to just use a
TKL cover.
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
More
LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
WTB/WTS/WTT ---->
More

Offline rowdy

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #8 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 19:01:32 »
Is there a dust cover that fits the Leo 660M?

A tea towel will adjust to fit most keyboard - the one I have fits my Model M and my HHKB.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline Linkbane

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #9 on: Sat, 29 March 2014, 19:52:12 »
This should fit I believe.

http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,roofs&pid=rfmek

Looking at pictures of these a couple of months ago, they look like the exact same thing. Funny that EK takes something from China and doubles the price, but either way you can get the same thing cheaper from China, and possibly just as fast if you pay for expedited shipping.

EDIT: No, I am incorrect. The roof from banggood has extending feet which go to the bottom of the keyboard, which actually would be better if you had a smaller keyboard because they don't have to stand on the frame.
« Last Edit: Sat, 29 March 2014, 19:55:33 by Linkbane »
Quickfire TK MX Blue Corsair K60 MX Red Ducky Shine 3 Yellow TKL MX Blue Leopold FC660C
Current best: 162 wpm.

Offline medvednic

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 13:50:46 »
 
IBM Model M | CM Strom QFR Stealth MX Brown

Offline dustinhxc

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 14:12:18 »
Damnit.. I want the exact thing but 60% why is there not one !?!?!?!??!

Offline Linkbane

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #12 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 14:34:37 »
Damnit.. I want the exact thing but 60% why is there not one !?!?!?!??!

Well, it should still fit. Might extend out laterally a bit, but if it's function you want, it'll be sufficient.
Quickfire TK MX Blue Corsair K60 MX Red Ducky Shine 3 Yellow TKL MX Blue Leopold FC660C
Current best: 162 wpm.

Offline mougrim

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #13 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 14:51:58 »
30$ for a piece of plastic? lol expensive...
is there any suggested alternative methods?

Paper bag from nearest store :)
IBM AT Model F, Vortexgear Race 3, AEKII (Alps Cream Damped), Metoo Zero (modded to Kailh Box Navy)

Offline IvanIvanovich

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #14 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 14:52:25 »
You can make things like this yourself for cheap and easily if you have access to a few things. You will need some acrylic sheet, a block of wood or similar in the size and shape desired, some clamps and a heat source like a heatgun or if you are really careful you can use a torch (or course an open flame can blacken the acrylic quite easily or melt holes very fast!). Clamp down the sheet over the form and heat it up along the edges, and just bend it down and clamp it in place to keep it how you want it while it cools.

Or... you could make it out of metal sheet if you have access to a brake, or you can make a ghetto diy brake on a workbench easy enough too.

Offline mougrim

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #15 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 15:27:04 »
You can make things like this yourself for cheap and easily if you have access to a few things. You will need some acrylic sheet, a block of wood or similar in the size and shape desired, some clamps and a heat source like a heatgun or if you are really careful you can use a torch (or course an open flame can blacken the acrylic quite easily or melt holes very fast!). Clamp down the sheet over the form and heat it up along the edges, and just bend it down and clamp it in place to keep it how you want it while it cools.

Or... you could make it out of metal sheet if you have access to a brake, or you can make a ghetto diy brake on a workbench easy enough too.

Metal cover... Hardcore :)
IBM AT Model F, Vortexgear Race 3, AEKII (Alps Cream Damped), Metoo Zero (modded to Kailh Box Navy)

Offline aref

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #16 on: Sun, 06 April 2014, 17:54:58 »
Fabric Keyboard-Cover

I picked up a tablecloth ($11.00) that was the color I wanted and asked my sister, she sews, to make two fitted cloth-covers for my most-used TKL keyboards. They work just fine and are sized perfectly. And when they pick up some dust, all I have to do is wash them.

I picked up a plastic roof from EK, about eight months ago, for one of my 87Us; but I dropped the roof this past week, not the keyboard, about three feet onto a carpeted floor and one corner chipped--I know they're not made to be dropped. Now it's cloth keyboard-covers only--I've yet to 'chip' either one. My custom covers look good and all I need do is fold and tuck them away when I'm using my daily keyboards.

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #17 on: Fri, 21 April 2017, 20:27:42 »
30bucks for some plastic that chips after a drop?
No thanks

I think I'll build a cover for my FILCO 104 clone from cardboard shipping boxes. Next time I'm in a supermarket I'll look for empty cardboard boxes.

I was willing to buy, but 18.99$ is silly and Banggood is out of stock anyway.

Offline sth

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #18 on: Fri, 21 April 2017, 20:30:56 »
wow its really blowing my mind that 2014 was 3 years ago already.
11:48 -!- SmallFry [~SmallFry@unaffiliated/smallfry] has quit [Ping timeout: 245 seconds] ... rest in peace

Online tp4tissue

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #19 on: Fri, 21 April 2017, 21:05:52 »
I wonder how many people paid $30 for a piece of bent acrylic.. hahahahah

Offline Data

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #20 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 15:14:15 »
I wonder how many people paid $30 for a piece of bent acrylic.. hahahahah

There's a sucker born every minute?

Offline Aelon

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #21 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 15:47:10 »
If transparency is not needed, then PVC sheets can also be used to built those covers at home. They are very easy to cut by using snap blade knife and you use super glue to glue the pieces. Finally you can sand the edges by sandpaper.

Besides, you can always paint them to your favorite color of course. Or some stickers on them perhaps...

In my latest keyboard modding/extension project, I also built two small partial keyboard covers for Numpad area and for the buttons above arrow keys. (Print Scrn, Insert, Delete, Home, End, Scr Lock, Pause Break, Page Up, Page Down group)

You can check pictures of my version of painted small keyboard covers from this forum topic: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=88994.0

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #22 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 16:28:04 »
Just but a Leopold they come with the plastic cover.

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #23 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 16:35:55 »
PVC panel ...  :-X ... i wouldn't know where to buy this stuff. but i get your idea, we can simply look for plastic sheets from any source, cut them with a sharp knife and glue the parts.

i thought of cutting up the original cardboard retail box of my mkb (is that the correct abbreviation for mechanical key board?  :)) ) and use it as cover. but maybe i should invest more efforts and look for plastic sheets.

i already have Stanley Interlock Big, Stanley Interlock Small, and Stanley Quickslide Sport II  :p

Edit: for our reference, here are some nominal thickness measurements:
Stanley quickslide clamshell packaging: 0.35mm (3D feels thick and rigid but 2D edges feels too flexible and thin, weird!)
Leatherman Wave pocket clip clamshell packaging: 0.50mm
Fenix Diffuser Tip clamshell packaging: 0.50mm
Denman Styling Brush rigid foil: 0.25mm (way too thin for keeb cover)
 I come to the conclusion that a keeb cover made out of clamshell plastic material should have at least 0.50mm thickness! 0.7mm would be perfect, 1.0mm unrealistically thick
« Last Edit: Fri, 09 June 2017, 12:37:51 by leech »

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #24 on: Fri, 28 April 2017, 10:19:27 »
cardboard

youtube is full of instructional videos on building DIY acrylic cases/enclosures and on working acrylic sheets (acrylic glass, plexiglass) like cutting, sawing, bending, finishing, glueing, and the treatment of cut lines. in principle the work is easy/enjoyable and straight-forward but one really needs to have a shop environment for all these works in order to get a satisfactory result. if you only have a PC room, 1 utility knife, 1 ordinary household glue, and 1 big acrylic glass sheet (or Plexiglass), an no further tools, devices, contraptions, machinery, working space and equipment, then that won't cut it.

a 500x500x4.0mm acrylic sheet costs 12.99EUR or so from OBI, maybe a 500x250x2.5mm sheet for 3.99EUR would suffice. however i will give up here. i am sure that nobody among us has managed to build a 5-sided acrylic case which doesn't look half-*rsed  :eek:, or which would get an A- grade from a highschool teacher. sure, give me 1 acrylic sheet and 45mins, and i'll build you a "working/functional" 5-faced acrylic case with first-time efforts and my 1 cutter and glue! we'd laugh at the end result and my teacher would give me a D+ for it no thanks.
if i want something purely functional, then i would simply put my winter scarf on my keyboard and be done with it!!  :p

No, if i spend $$ money on a DIY solution, then the result must also look nice, at least worthy of a B+. With minimum efforts, minimum $ money, i wouldn't need or expect a beautiful solution.

But cardboard?

Also no thanks. That's plain cheap and fugly. And degrades too fast. At least in my humid filthy room  :))

So i am thinking hard white foam now. Let me try to find a 10mm thick commercial sheet of hard/ish foam and cut it in 5 pieces. Maybe i should use special glue for joining the faces, we'll see. Actually i have such a foam cover for my other electronic desktop device, i made it out of its original packaging foam:




 
« Last Edit: Fri, 28 April 2017, 10:21:22 by leech »

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #25 on: Sun, 30 April 2017, 08:45:23 »
The story continues  :D ...

So i went to a local retailer, who is known for selling scrap foam, and bought 2 small foam scraps for a total of 5eur. Clearly a rip-off but i agreed to support the local dealership. 1eur for scraps would have been fair enough. anyway, moving on.



Back at my desk i realized that the stuff was too short, and to be honest, also slightly too flexible. At least i got the stiffest material they had in stock! Luckily it was not too soft for cutting with my Stanley knives. Yet i am telling you, cutting through 1.5cm thickness by hand and trying to cut a perfectly straight line with constant rectangular angles everywhere ("geometrical cut" and 2-dimensional) along anything longer than 60cm is a huge challenge. Drawing a 10cm 100.00%-straight line with a pencil is easy-peasy (= 1-dimensional task), parting a 1.5cm thick foam (or plastic) sheet by cutting a 60x1.5cm² 99.8%-flat cutting surface (= 3-dimensional task!) by hand is practically impossible: the cutting surface will not be uniformly flat but look askew and have bumps or whatever. With electric saws, laser cutters, or other machinery you can get constant rectangular cuts along a 60cm straight line, sure. Never mind, again moving on.



Then it was time to glue the 5 faces, even though 2 of them were too short. Sounds easy, right? Wrong. Having learned from my previous DIY projects, i knew that glueing things, for serious purposes/applications, is a science on its own and in the end one can only test and learn which combination of materials (materialA + materialB, materialA + materialA, materialB + materialB) can form a great glueing bond with a certain glue product (glueC, glueD, glueE). I tried all possible combinations and by the end of the day learned that no combination with no glue worked well omfg. My economic glue products didn't do the trick, meaning that joining the foam stuff would become the bottleneck of my project/result. Not the flexibility of the foam, not the difficulty of cutting rectangular (or at a fixed angle) flat cuts. But the difficulty of joining the 5 faces to 1 protective cover/enclosure.  :'(

I decided to move on and try a different path, a different material. I must say that making the DIY dust cover out of acrylic glass (Plexiglass) would have cost much more efforts and would have been even more challenging in every single way, every aspect (bending, cutting straight, cutting at angles, cutting curved, deburring, joining, e.g. by glueing). I am not saying that building a DIY cover made out of joined foam faces is a challenge lol, but I am saying that building a DIY cover made out of joined foam faces which would get an A- grade or better is a challenge! Yes it is.

Acrylic glass? — The number 1 choice of dust cover material but way too much efforts for a diy project.
Foam? — Not too challenging but the bottleneck is the joining of the faces, foam does not glue well to foam. Unless you buy and try 10$ professional premium 2-component epoxy resin #2474.
What's left? Maybe wood? — Hmmmm...

Yes, wood laminate!!!  :eek: :cool:
Best material ever, after acrylic glass. A little heavy and imho over-the-top but timelessly beautiful, drop impact resistant, and so easy to work with, to join parts, and ride along!

Done.

https://abload.de/img/cover3niksn.jpg

 ;D

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #26 on: Fri, 05 May 2017, 07:08:04 »
today i am presenting an alternative build-my-own mkb cover DIY project, i am very satisfied with the result.

pro's
  • perfectly covers all 5 faces!
  • does not look cra**y, has matching color scheme
  • professional quality perfect geometrical cuts
  • likable light weight, drop impact resistant
  • surprising fit, pretty good inner fit, can't complain
  • FREE material, easy to work with few simple tools
  • foldaway build possible (as shown here) for easy/likable/sturdy workday storage
  • taped faces very easy to clean
  • material won't oxidize, deteriorate, degrade, or become yellow
  • material won't crack or chip after long-term handling/wear'n tear
con's
  • thick wall thickness and untight inner dimensions lead to notable outer dimensions
  • raised feet inclined boards might be slightly too tall, one should clap down the mkb feet to lower the mkb height
  • the fit could/should be tighter, but can't complain
  • transparent faces would look more classy
  • while it is drop impact resistant, it could still be easily destroyed/broken/damaged by accidental mishaps or careless handling
  • actually, if you look at this list of con's, there aren't any major ones or which bother/worry me

Summary/Rating. Out of 3 possible grades (Thumbsup, Thumbssideward, Thumbsdown) i am giving, without hesitation, a Thumbsup for overall likability and a Thumbsup for resulting quality&looks, i.e. a grade "A" or "A-" if it were a classroom art project in middle school. I'm feeling rather lucky that everything turned out so well. So here is the documentation for your entertainment or inspiration purposes:

This build is entirely based on styrofoam material. I found 2 styrofoam trays, made out of a dense styrofoam quality, in an old cardboard box which was the original packaging of my PC case. In the box the 2 trays are to hold the PC case securely in place and protect it against shocks during transport. Printers, TV screens, PC monitors, VCR's, they all come shipped in cardboard boxes padded with such styrofoam, and you could ask a local computer hardware retailer if he has such packaging leftovers for you. The following picture was taken last, it shows some styrofoam leftovers from this DIY project:


One tray had almost the perfect dimensions, yet the inner length was 1cm too short for my liking. So i had to cut up both trays ~about in the middle with a Stanley knife, easy task!, and together the two tray halves would join up to 1 full cover with enough play in the inner length(L) dimension. But can you see what's wrong with this cover solution?


Exactly! The miserly styrofoam manufacturer produced the white foam trays with a couple of round and rectangular holes omfg. To save weight and cost! How good is a dust cover if it has such big holes? No good. I had to plug up the holes somehow. But with what? Ah, i could try to use the leftovers from the above styrofoam halving, enough material available:


I guess now it is time to present the tools needed for this project. Nothing spectacular, you can find it in your or your neighbor's household, just don't be shy of asking hh. For the cutting task the segmented blade Stanley knife performed better than the trapezoidal blade Stanley knife, never mind:


So i cut out circular and rectangular forms out of the styrofoam scraps for plugging up the holes. Fun task, reminded me of my pre-kindergarten playing activities with blocks. I had much fun back then, too!  :))


The resulting bottom side of the dust cover looks like this, so far:


And the top side looks even better, flat like a plane. There are 2 tiny holes left, i guess:


The plug fillings were tight fits in the holes and sufficient but since i had inexpensive white duck tape, also called gaffa tape, in the house, i decided to tape the top and the bottom sides. 4 long stripes per dust cover half were needed. And gone were also the 2 tiny holes, nice:


Taping comes with several advantages and zilch disadvantages. Easy to clean/wipe off, reinforces/protects the covered foam surfaces, seals holes, and offers the best surface for re-taping purposes, for example i could now join the two halves with double-sided adhesive tape, easily so. As you know, glueing styrofoam parts securely with glue is a huge challenge, i've tested it and failed.
Oh the USB cable needs a cutout, sure:

 
Commercial acrylic glass covers have large cutouts at the back (and sometimes at the sides yikes!), through which dust and smoke can enter. I like my custom solution much better in this regard:


As noted earlier, the outer dimensions are, erh, notable. Let's have look:


That is 49.4cm x 21.5cm x 6.6cm. Not an annoyingly big cover but definitely not to be called compact either:


The inner dimensions are 46.0x18.0x4.5cm. The wall thickness is 1.5cm or 2.0cm. The desk would see the covered keyboard like this:


As we can see, there is enough space left, if i decide to buy a wider keyboard in future and substitute it:


Last but not least i did decide to join the two cover halves. For this purpose i created a hinge made out of adhesive clear book foil. Now we have a folding dust cover, pretty :cool: :


Another shot featuring the transparent hinge. A shot taken in the air with my flashlight dangling down, lol:


While i am super happy and satisfied with this DIY 2825 solution, stay tuned, i have something else in the works :-*
Hope you enjoyed this presentation!

(to be continued)
« Last Edit: Fri, 05 May 2017, 17:30:45 by leech »

Offline quake4mhg

  • Posts: 492
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #27 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 02:05:18 »
These are my solution ;D


Offline Targa-TV

  • Posts: 183
  • Location: Italy
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #28 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 03:30:26 »
Nice DIY, but it's so overkill imo. You would think you put dust on the same level as polonium.
Wouldn't a random piece of cloth work in the same way by occupying one tenth of the space and most likely managing to look better?
« Last Edit: Sun, 07 May 2017, 03:32:29 by Targa-TV »
Filco MJ2 Black - MX Red | VA88M - MX Brown | Cherry G80-3000 -
  MX Blue | Cherry G80-3000 - MX Black | XD75re - MX Silent Red

[image]http://i.imgur.com/our8YUc.png[/image]

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #29 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 06:17:58 »
These are my solution ;D
I am not sure what i am seeing there, thanks for sharing anyways.
Does your JPG showcase 3 different boards with their 3 different covers?
So for the 2 full-sized boards you simply place the cardboard packaging (or shipping) box on the keys? That's ingenious  :thumb:

What can you tell us about the transparent plastic cover for the small board, and why does it have a Razer logo on it?  :-*
The plastic looks quite sturdy, designed for a longer life.

Offline JaccoW

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #30 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 13:33:31 »
I have always imagined that a bent piece of aluminum with lasercut acrylic windows could work really well.

A bit like the window of a laboratory box:


Hell, you could probably even anodise it. :P
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Offline pr0ximity

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #32 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 16:02:49 »
Unicomp sells dust covers for Model M's that conforms to the sides of the keyboard and the individual caps, really works well. I wonder if there are any non-adhesive heat-shrink vacuum-formed materials that you could DIY without much trouble.
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Offline JaccoW

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #33 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 16:44:24 »
I found an eBay seller last year that sold those for G80-1800 cases.
|||Daily driver: Duck Orion TKL
|||My other keyboards :
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|||The Original|Home|Work|Numpad|Play|Endgame|Keycaps
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|||Want to know what Keycap stores there are? Check out my Keyboard Pearltree and my (FS/FT/WTB) thread

Offline Targa-TV

  • Posts: 183
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #34 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 16:56:53 »
Reading about these super dust covers that conform to every single keycap and I can't even be bothered to remember if mine came with a cover.


Meanwhile:

during the day


at night


Filco MJ2 Black - MX Red | VA88M - MX Brown | Cherry G80-3000 -
  MX Blue | Cherry G80-3000 - MX Black | XD75re - MX Silent Red

[image]http://i.imgur.com/our8YUc.png[/image]

Offline leech

  • Posts: 83
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  • …always on the lookout for higher quality…
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #35 on: Sun, 07 May 2017, 17:33:21 »
Wouldn't a random piece of cloth work in the same way by occupying one tenth of the space and most likely managing to look better?
Agreed. But i do enjoy handling something sturdy like cardboard, styrofoam, plexiglass, wood, aluminum, or PET plastic. Such covers deploy fast and are really fun/easy to clean.

Speaking of PET plastic cover. What happened to your FILCO cover which came in your original packaging?  ;)

Offline Targa-TV

  • Posts: 183
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #36 on: Mon, 08 May 2017, 01:59:14 »
What happened to your FILCO cover which came in your original packaging?  ;)

I don't know and sincerely I don't care to know since my desk is tiny and I don't want random huge things to occupy space and be useful for only half a day.
Filco MJ2 Black - MX Red | VA88M - MX Brown | Cherry G80-3000 -
  MX Blue | Cherry G80-3000 - MX Black | XD75re - MX Silent Red

[image]http://i.imgur.com/our8YUc.png[/image]

Offline atarione

  • Posts: 178
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #37 on: Mon, 08 May 2017, 19:02:45 »
I always want to remember to put the plastic cover on my TKL Filco MT2..

but i always (almost) forget to actually do so...

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #38 on: Tue, 09 May 2017, 04:07:21 »
but i always (almost) forget to actually do so...
hehe. I never cared to use a cover on my rubberdome boards, but since I made this easy to find easy to deploy easy to wipe styrofoam diy cover, I've been using it ever since so far and con gusto on my mkb 😇

Here's a commercial selection for s*ckers, them Koreans called it 'kee-boh-de-'loo-peh  ;D
http://www.leopold.co.kr/?doc=cart/list.php&ca_id=2040
« Last Edit: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:28:14 by leech »

Offline leech

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #39 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:23:54 »
I picked up a tablecloth ($11.00) that was the color I wanted and asked my sister, she sews, to make two fitted cloth-covers for my most-used TKL keyboards. They work just fine and are sized perfectly. And when they pick up some dust, all I have to do is wash them.
Something like this? Looks like a simple towel to me. Easy to wash, truth to that.


Unicomp sells dust covers for Model M's that conforms to the sides of the keyboard and the individual caps, really works well.
The webpage doesn't have any(!) details on the product:
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/CVR
So is it stiff material like the FLICO/DUCKY/LEOPOLD packaging dust shell made out of PET, or is it sleeve/foil/skin/membrane-like material similar to a thick plastic bag?
« Last Edit: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:53:30 by leech »

Offline pr0ximity

  • Posts: 2708
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #40 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:26:06 »
Unicomp sells dust covers for Model M's that conforms to the sides of the keyboard and the individual caps, really works well.
The webpage doesn't have any(!) details on the product:
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/CVR
So is it stiff material like the FLICO/DUCKY/LEOPOLD packaging dust shell made out of PET, or is it sleeve/foil/skin-like material similar to a thick plastic bag?

It's like a thin rubber sort of material.
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Offline leech

  • Posts: 83
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #41 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:27:06 »
thin rubber .. so not rigid like rigid plastic clamshell/blister packaging material oic. Is it easy to clean, i mean real easy?

Hama, the biggest trading company for computer electronics and household accessories in gemani, has a similar product i guess, the Hama 42200 which is afaik an active item in the catalog, not discontinued. They are not that easy or convenient to clean and are not convenient to deploy imho:


Before, Hama had the Hama 42269, made out of very thin transparent rigid "hard PVC" sheet material, presumably thinner than the FLICO PET one. Easy to clean and deploy but the real problem is that the product has been discontinued:


The Hama prices are/were under 5 bucks mas shipping. Still too much $$$ basically for clamshell packaging plastic  :p
« Last Edit: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:55:17 by leech »

Offline romevi

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #42 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 10:28:05 »
I've been wanting to have one of these since I first got into mechs. I used to have this membrane for my Unicomp that Unicomp sells. It's perfectly fitted, but you'd have a hard time finding covers that perfectly fit all the kustoms in the wild.
What I want to do now instead is get fabric and cut them up so that they drape over the keyboard. This way it fits the keyboard--somewhat--and looks pleasant. You can add elaborate stitching at the ends to really spruce it up, too. Maybe tassels on the corners.

Offline pr0ximity

  • Posts: 2708
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #43 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 11:32:44 »
Is it easy to clean, i mean real easy?

Nope, though I haven't tried very hard. The rubberized texture makes dust stick to it and it doesn't let go easily.

It's basically a keyboard condom. Though I've not tried to dust off a condom before.
| Flickr | KMAC 1.2 | GON NeRD TKL | GSKT-00-Z | GSKT-00-AEK | GON NeRD 60 | Jane V2 CE | Whale | J80S | 356CL DGE | G80-5000 HAMDE | IBM 1390120 | IBM F AT | IBM F122 | IBM 3101 | Zenith Z-150

Offline SBJ

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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #44 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 11:35:49 »
Maybe tassels on the corners.
That would be baller man.  :))

I am still contemplating what to do in terms of covering up the keyboard.
I think what I'm leaning towards the most right now is just a tea cover thingy.
Or I'll get my aunt to make me something, she's pretty good with yarn!

Offline leech

  • Posts: 83
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  • …always on the lookout for higher quality…
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #45 on: Wed, 17 May 2017, 11:51:02 »
Though I've not tried to dust off a condom before.
oh i hate condoms too



Offline quake4mhg

  • Posts: 492
  • Location: BC, Canada
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #46 on: Sun, 21 May 2017, 01:47:36 »
These are my solution ;D
I am not sure what i am seeing there, thanks for sharing anyways.
Does your JPG showcase 3 different boards with their 3 different covers?
So for the 2 full-sized boards you simply place the cardboard packaging (or shipping) box on the keys? That's ingenious  :thumb:

What can you tell us about the transparent plastic cover for the small board, and why does it have a Razer logo on it?  :-*
The plastic looks quite sturdy, designed for a longer life.

Sorry, missed this post.

Cardboard are made from packaging.
The transparent plastic cover is a Daiso shoes box I believe.
You get Razer stickers whatever you buy from them ;D


Offline leech

  • Posts: 83
  • Location: gemani
  • …always on the lookout for higher quality…
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #47 on: Wed, 24 May 2017, 10:56:03 »
with the build from this post we're approaching the end of my stories regarding this relevant/popular topic, unless i stumble across something nicer one day by chance. i am thinking that the top lid of a narrow shoebox from cardboard or else would be nice and perfect as keyboard cover, @quake4mhg terrific idea thanks for sharing!!, however no shoebox has the length 44cm (4550) of filco 104. today i am presenting a follow-up on the foam build-my-own mkb cover DIY project, i am satisfied with the function but not with the size and looks. Function over form :eek:

pro's
  • perfectly covers all 5 faces, even with raised feet inclined boards
  • very easy to clean, dust off
  • very convenient to deploy, i prefer rigid covers to flexible ones
  • per se clean and dust-free. all my pieces of cloths contain lint, dust or fluff, yours not?
  • good inner fit as planned
  • FREE or inexpensive material, low cost solution
  • material won't oxidize, deteriorate, degrade, or become yellow under normal conditions
  • material won't crack or chip after long-term handling/wear'n tear
con's
  • silly thick wall thickness leads to silly outer dimensions
  • ugly color scheme, ugly colors, ugly cuts, ugly seams, ugly size, ugly diy looks, bähh!
  • ridicules the maker, provokes head shaking, room visitors ;D appalled
  • can't be folded or stored away easily, what an effing waste of room space!
  • dislikable workday storage
  • will deform, decompose, or rot if stored away in the basement
  • took lots of efforts, time, frustration, to get anywhere near the desired result
  • while it is more or less drop impact resistant, it could still be easily destroyed/broken/damaged by accidental mishaps or careless handling
Summary/Rating. Out of 3 possible grades (Thumbsup, Thumbssideward, Thumbsdown) i am giving a Thumbssideward for the overall result and likability, i.e. a grade "C" or "C+" if it were a classroom art project in junior high. While the build turned out as planned, i had believed that i would like the end result better. Point is, even with perfect geometrical cuts and seams, i wouldn't like the end result any better; the ugly size, colors and mismatching materials would still appall the viewer. In life, in everyday life, function is not all that matters. If it were, i could simply put a Safeway plastic bag on the keyboard and be done with the topic. Lol. So here is the documentation for your entertainment purposes (sorry in advance if you feel that most photos are redundant):

The story continues  :D ...
...continuing, I had all the parts, hadn't i? In my original thinking, yes. However the purple foam was dense and had some weight to it and definitely needed stabilization to reduce the foam flexibility. Any cardboard quality would have done the trick, i went for the dougle wall corrugated cardboard which i got for free from the local PC components retailer. I felt lucky having got a big empty box branded Logitech who coincidentally is a keyboard maker if not keyboard cover maker:


I tried my best cutting out a perfect rectangle matching the dimensions of the foam top face. That went well, so far so good:
 

Joining foam parts directly with glue is a true challenge, i did many tests and experiments and failed. Interestingly, foam can stick extraordinarily well to paper, cards, cardboard, using the same glue:


All righty then for the main plate:


Have you noticed that the cardboard plate is not all flat? Neither was the foam, argh. Both had some curve to it, both were convex, thus not cancelling out each other's curvature, too bad. I thought that compressing with heavy books during the drying phase of the glue would do the trick and flatten out both materials. Well, with the books on, the stuff looked flat all right:


Unexpectedly the trick didn't work and the plate came out convex nonetheless. Much later i learned that manual counter-bending would straighten the plate just fine. Are we done with the preparation of the 5 faces? From the inside, the 5 inner faces would look like this:


Looks legit, i'd say. However the 5 outer faces would look like that:


Not legit. At this point i realized that i had messed up, one error which i had done when cutting the 2nd lateral face omfg. You aren't realizing it, you can't see what i mean? Yeah, that's how/why i had done the error in the first place. You no smarter than me then lol. Moving on for now. The front and rear faces were too short. I decided to extend them to maximum length. The cutting of perfectly matching cutting profiles of the extensions wasn't too easy, the gluing itself was straight-forward:



Let's check basic dimensions, never mind the orientation of the black foam parts, hmmm:


With correct orientation:


I wanna see how tight the inner fitment will be. OIC minimal play, me likey:



But hey, before we proceed with the assembly of the 5 faces, why not use the top plate alone as dust cover? It's not the worst. Sunny-side up:






Quite awesome. Or maybe i like the other side better:



For the sake of this thread, i decided to not let it be but proceed with the assembly. With tacky glue it was surprisingly easy to make the foam parts stick to the cardboard. In hindsight i regret not having used exclusively right angles when "designing" (what a big word! :)) ) the dust cover. I thought about the right order of assembly and started with the first black foam. I had cut the foam at some arbitrary inclined angle, guesswork. Naturally i had to re-use this angle when joining the parts, crossing fingers:


The second black foam should have been cut at the same angle. When gluing it to the top plate, i realized that things were gonna be off and me starting to become unhappy :'( :


I was wondering. Were the two black foam parts perpendicular to the table? For sure they were not too off parallel and perpendicularity seemed promising:



Then i flipped the semifinished dust cover and look what i got wtf  :confused: :



Yeah perpendicularity my ***!!  :eek: At this point i knew that the project was a lost cause. Yet i decided to march on and glue the first lateral face. The angles didn't match up, nor the height, check the corners which are to meet the desktop surface:


A closeup for you, ugliness abounds:


Also take note of the pattern on the lateral face. Once the dust cover were deployed, the alignment of the pattern would be, in fact, parallel to the desktop surface. Or on the photo, can you see how the (imaginary) lines are cutting into the cardboard? I would call that 'correct':


Now let's compare to the pattern on the second lateral face. The imaginary lines of the pattern are parallel to the cardboard profile wth:


The next fail is that the face profile does not project onto the first lateral face profile. WTF did i do or think when cutting the second lateral face  :blank: (that's a faceless smiley, i lost my face by now!!):



But when i flip it, the profile would project nicely, aha :




I must have been on the john smokin when the teacher went over that geometry lesson in class, about projection and mirror symmetry. Now lesson learned, and too late to fix. Proceeding with gluing the second lateral face, it is the last part of the assembly. Note that all gluing surfaces must be plane; try to cut a thick piece of foam with a utility knife and you'll learn how plane you are able to cut a cutting surface, no diss intended:


How can you exert pressure on all 3 gluing surfaces at the same time and in particular when the materials involved are spongy, flexible, compressible? Difficult. And i couldn't manage. So during the drying phase i filled in another glue, cheap clear stuff:


Okay! I think we've got something here:


Without further ado let me share some photo now ;) . The left side has the correct pattern alignment :


View of the rear. I can't see the hole for the Bluetooth cable  :cool: :


The right side has a tilted pattern. Not correct. Also enough head space at the front:


Profile size comparison:



Panoramic view:



Bird's eye view:


The bottom line is:
While the project was a success in that i did not let my expenses go to waste and i completed the project with a working functional result, sturdier than expected, and also much easier to clean than expected (Have you ever tried to clean a foam construction?), i must admit that, if i could go back in time, i would not have paid money for the effing foam scraps and i would not have tried to build a dust cover made from different foam parts or from foam to start with. Life can be full of regrets and this shan't one of them. No, i won't toss the thing right away. I'll leave it intact somewhere in the house and maybe even use it temporarily as a reminder that i shouldn't *uck again with any of my future crafts. Spare time is limited and valuable, so we should try our best not to *uck during that time.

 :thumb:

Offline JaccoW

  • Fire Typer!!
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Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #48 on: Wed, 24 May 2017, 16:44:35 »
however no shoebox has the length 44cm (4550) of filco 104.

Time to get some fetish boots boy.
|||Daily driver: Duck Orion TKL
|||My other keyboards :
More
|||The Original|Home|Work|Numpad|Play|Endgame|Keycaps
x
|Déck Legend Frost|Keycool 87 LE|Leopold FC660M|FC 210TP|Raptor K1 Gaming|Duck Orion TKL|My keycaps & sets
|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics

|||Want to know what Keycap stores there are? Check out my Keyboard Pearltree and my (FS/FT/WTB) thread

Offline leech

  • Posts: 83
  • Location: gemani
  • …always on the lookout for higher quality…
Re: Plastic keyboard covers.
« Reply #49 on: Sun, 28 May 2017, 13:29:18 »
No boots or shoe box needed anymore i think. In this posting I am presenting an imho pretty good alternative, maybe i am liking it best so far. So the other day i got this clear plastic (PET) cover from my local mkb vendor "Candykeys", it was included in my order. Reminded me of the FILCO 104 cover which comes packaged in FILCO retail boxes but this one was slightly thicker/sturdier, had room for 108 keys, was unbranded and had deeper covering at the front and sides than the FILCO branded PET dust cover. Great stuff!

pro's
  • covers all 5 faces, very well so!
  • looks low profile/classy/commercial, has matching color scheme
  • professional quality perfect geometrical mold, 100% perfect fit
  • rigid yet flexible, very light weight, hence drop impact resistant
  • easy and fast mod protects against wear'n tear
  • transparent top face makes it easy to see when it is time to clean
con's
  • due to transparent-white color scheme easy to accidentally overlook/step on/sit on/etc
  • electrostatics makes it a magnet for dust, due to 3D surface not really easy to clean or dust off
  • not robust. easily gets damaged/indented/cracked/bent/broken by accidental mishaps or careless handling
  • material will deteriorate, degrade, or become brittle, after softening plasticizers have diffused out
  • material will crack or chip after long-term handling/wear'n tear

Summary/Rating. Out of 3 possible grades (Thumbsup, Thumbssideward, Thumbsdown) i am giving, without hesitation, a Thumbsup for overall likability and a Thumbsup for resulting quality&looks, i.e. a grade "A" if it were a classroom art project in middle school. The below primitive mod is suitable for all current owners of a DUCKY/FILCO/LEOPOLD/ETC keyboard since they have such a clear PET cover already from inside the retail box. The vendors/distributors also stock such items, go ahead and ask your preferred dealer, they might give you a spare one. So here is the documentation for your entertainment or inspiration purposes:

Check your FILCO cover, the front side is not as deep as the CANDYKEYS one. Very deep, perfectly suitable for the taping mod:


See how deep it covers the front rim of my keeb? Just beautiful protection against dust from all sides:


But the problem with these el cheapo mass-produced PET sheets is that the sheet edge is prone to material failure like cracks, chips and sort. When you tear a sheet, the edge of the sheet will tear first, right? Makes sense to me ymmv. So we need to protect the edge. I have cheap white gaffer tape (duct tape) and cheap white electrician's tape.   


:cool: =, lol.

Anywhoo, you start with a 70cm long stripe of gaffa tape and stick it to the front face (of the 44cm long clear plastic cover), then you stick the dangling ends (13 + 44 + 13 = 70cm) to either side face in such a manner that no air bubble or alike gets trapped underneath the covering tape. Since the shape of the cover is not rectangular, this means that the dangling ends cannot be sticked parallel to the side faces. You can see the white line/the lines in the above photo, they cross at the center of the side face. When you're done with both tasks, i.e. the 70cm tape for the front face and another 70cm tape for the rear face, you could stick another piece of tape on top of the side face (14cm for the left face, 14cm for the right face) parallel to the side faces, as i did, to improve the esthetics of the taped side faces. Finally i taped the inside with 1 single stripe of electrician's tape all around, mostly because of esthetics too. The gaffa tape was too wide, even after wrapping it around the PET edge, so i had to cut it, which i didn't do very neatly , my bad. The electrician's tape masks that hehe:


So. Shall we have a look? Doesn't look too bad, my first attempt of taping:


If i wanted, i could remove the tape and redo the taping, maybe with higher quality white gaffa tape. That's so great about this diy mod, no harm done. Maybe also because i used cheap tapes, both by the Verlofix brand. They do not adhere aggressively to the PET surface tbh and are not very thick either:


That leaves me with the question of how to clean this fragile cover. Well, i will rinse it with clean water and that's it. Hopefully the tapes will continue to stick to the PET surface after the splashes of water, we'll see. Now i have at least 3 covers (the white Styrofoam one, the purple-black foam one, and this clear plastic one) for my FILCO knockoff keeb. That should do it. Maybe i should get a few more of these PET covers from Candykeys, in case i break/crack/indent this cover by accident.  :-[

If anyone was using the FILCO PET cover 4960, what happened to it? Please share. Did you lose it, break it, throw it away or give away?