Lubing Cherry MX blues .. too much

[Wasp]

Hi forum,
I ran into a problem (In fact two but I guess I better split the topics). I own a ErgoDox Infinity with blue Cherry MX switches which felt a little "scratchy" especially when hitting the key a little from an outer angle. So I decided that lubing could be a good solution to it. After a long struggle what (and where) to buy -- as well as reading multiple sources -- I finally decided to try my luck with Reely differently silicon oil viscosity 50000 which I thought is a good compromise. (I read that some people went for oil while some went for grease and some even mixed both.)

After applying only onto the "outer" rails as well as on both ends of the spring -- even with "less is more" in mind -- turns out  after 3 hours of pain: even less would have been more; or maybe a different oil -- I don't know. However the keys feel pretty sticky(?) and somehow the click is partial gone. As you can imagine: I am not amused.

Since I saw a funny video on how (not) to lube your keys, I wanna clarify you (I) can barley see any substance inside the housing. Just some "shininess" on the outer rails when you look closely.

Question(s):

• How to fix this issue? Probably means how do I remove the (most) of the oil at best again? ^[1]
• Which oil would (have) been/be better?

What are your ideas about this?

Addition: If you wanna know, how to freak yourself out even more with a bent copper plate, see second problem: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94825.0

Thanks in advance
Wasp


[1] Usually I would go for WD40 to remove it but since this is made for metal it is probably not a could idea for plastic. Second idea right of my head would be alcohol but first of all: does it solve oil actually(?), second: what would the plastic housing think of the new guest? Don't wanna make it worse and release the next plague onto my island of plastic key-switches.

[kmba]

Never lube mx style clicky switches. Lube inevitably gets in between the click jacket and the stem and muffles the click. Only way to fix is a nice bath. Probably easier to get new switches.

[tp4tissue]

Oh jesus..

Sigh..


Take all the stems out and the switch tops, put them in a bottle/jar with alcohol, and Gently shake them..


Take a cutip, wipe all the switch rails.  Be very careful not to get the cotton caught on the leafspring, you might pull one out..

The main problem might be the stem hole...


Overall, do the best you can on removing what's visible inside the switch housing.

You don't need to worry about getting it 100% clean, a little lube is fine. 

[Wasp]

Thanks for the answers.

Never lube mx style clicky switches. Lube inevitably gets in between the click jacket and the stem and muffles the click.

I'm not really worried about the muffled click. In fact I knew about it but *my* issue is that it changes the responsiveness of the switch. A little like pressing the stamp through honey. What wanted for real is somehow the opposite.

Overall, do the best you can on removing what's visible inside the switch housing.

Assuming the ideal case that I can remove everything: what do I do about the initial problem, the scratchiness?
Sure, as described above, the result with switches I have to press through honey souse is far from perfect but I still need a solution for the scratchiness as well as the slightly blocking switches if I hit them from a low angle. What is the cure for it -- also for my so far virgin right ErgoDox half?

[Wasp]

Never lube mx style clicky switches.

Argue with MMB on the thread Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide about that. Even though It was never *really* on top of my head that it is different for clicky switches because nobody really says it (in other threads) but I was slightly aware of a little lower click (because of MMB). I would be fine with it BUT it also changes the feeling! (At least with my type of oil.)

Lube inevitably gets in between the click jacket and the stem and muffles the click.

From my current investigation/understanding that is not the problem as said before. I think the real problem is that the oil gets between the two plastic parts and removes the tactility!

Only way to fix is a nice bath. Probably easier to get new switches.

Sadly, after a long odyssey (and a lot of wasted time) I will go this route now and swap with Gaterons. (Maybe I will bath them when they are out.)

[saxophone]

Pressure air can remove excess lubrication depending on which type it is. You will need huge amounts of it however, perhaps go to a bicycle store and borrow their compressor? Also some tweezers to hold the part onto place so it doesn't get blown away while you try to blow off the lube.

[KHAANNN]

My suggestion is that you learn to love it

For clicky switches, only the spring bottom should be lubed, it removes the ping

For my last build, I experimented with lubed greens, it creates a mushy, suppressed click, I enjoyed it, but tactile greys always win for me - I find the mushy click experience to be unique and enjoyable, but it's still confusing, hard to settle with

So it might be a good time for you to just re-build with tactiles too, clicky switches are always icky, there's one issue or the other, even if you calibrate them to perfection, the clicks or the variance of clicks might just give you a headache from time to time, tactiles are gold

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC

My .02