Filco keyboard - modding project

[phinix]

I bought a nice Filco TKL keyboard and want to mod it - desolder those mx blues and solder nice Oil Kings modded with 80g springs.

Desoldering worries aside - I wan to mod that cable, so its going to be short one coming out of the case and ending with USB socket - ideally USB-C female, or if not C, then USB-A female socket.

Now I need help with that cable - I can use original one and cut it in the inside part, so solder wont be visible, just make it shorter and it would end with male USB-A. I could then use some adapters to make it work for my USB-C cable on my desk which I se to plug all my keyboards in, just use some USB-A to C adapter for that Filco.

Is there an easy way to solder USB-C female socket to that Filco cable? Like wire amount wise etc?

[Tactile]

Does it have to end up with a pigtail or would a flush fit receptacle be acceptable?

Here are a few ideas:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54886.0

https://hardforum.com/threads/after-forever-of-thinking-about-doing-this-my-filco-mt2-tkl-w-with-removable-cable-mod.2030437/

https://imgur.com/gallery/filco-usb-c-mod-chP6yIN

[phinix]

Does it have to end up with a pigtail or would a flush fit receptacle be acceptable?

Here are a few ideas:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54886.0

https://hardforum.com/threads/after-forever-of-thinking-about-doing-this-my-filco-mt2-tkl-w-with-removable-cable-mod.2030437/

https://imgur.com/gallery/filco-usb-c-mod-chP6yIN

Thanks.
Yeah, I could do daughterboard too.
For me, problem is to know all the wires in the USB cable. Maybe I could just buy some usb-c adapter and 5pin JST plug and make new cable, not messing up the original one.

[Leslieann]

Is there an easy way to solder USB-C female socket to that Filco cable? Like wire amount wise etc?

I used a usb-C extension cable, the one I used was usb 2.0 internally so basically I just snipped and soldered the correct colored wires one to one.

You just want (if you can) to find a 2.0 extension with type C connector otherwise you will have to figure out the right wires to connect, which isn't really that difficult if it comes down to it.

[phinix]

Is there an easy way to solder USB-C female socket to that Filco cable? Like wire amount wise etc?

I used a usb-C extension cable, the one I used was usb 2.0 internally so basically I just snipped and soldered the correct colored wires one to one.

You just want (if you can) to find a 2.0 extension with type C connector otherwise you will have to figure out the right wires to connect, which isn't really that difficult if it comes down to it.

Yeah, I know what you mean.
I'll start modding it and will take a look at the actual cable inside. I'm guessing internally it has 4 wires and if I got that usb-c to usb 2.0 extension you mentioned, I would have 4 wires as well.
I'll keep this thread updated with photos and we get it sorted

[PixelJockey]

The first keyboard I modded was my old Cool Master Rapid fire. Essentially it's the same pcb as the Filco TKL. I desoldered the switches painted the plate and bought a anodized aluminum case on Aliexpress. The case came with a USB-C daughterboard.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832431251957.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21US%20%24138.70%21US%20%24138.70%21%21%21138.70%21138.70%21%402103010b17200216996833085eb4fb%2112000037490318240%21sh%21US%21758723745%21&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007473274157.32617566709&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[phinix]

The first keyboard I modded was my old Cool Master Rapid fire. Essentially it's the same pcb as the Filco TKL. I desoldered the switches painted the plate and bought a anodized aluminum case on Aliexpress. The case came with a USB-C daughterboard.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832431251957.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21US%20%24138.70%21US%20%24138.70%21%21%21138.70%21138.70%21%402103010b17200216996833085eb4fb%2112000037490318240%21sh%21US%21758723745%21&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007473274157.32617566709&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Sounds good, but I wouldn't use that alu case for it.
But that means it is doable!

[phinix]

That de-soldering is a real pain in the ass!
I have to first solder more.. solder on those pins, as they soldered those switches really neatly, you can barely see the solder on those pins.
So first I'm adding more solder, then using solder sucker to get rid of it. Then of course not always works, I would say 50/50, then I need to re-do the whole process.
Sucker doesn't suck it all, most of the time leaves "solder painted" pin, enough to keep holding the switch in... aaagaggrrrrr
Few hours and I got rid of 18 switches 

[phinix]

OK... few more hours and its done.
What a ****-job...
I totally ruined just one contact, I mean like seriously ruined. I couldn't pull out one switch as it kept sticking to one hole.
I was so pissed and suddenly I went off and stabbed the f***ing pcb with a soldering iron, straight into that f***ing hole. Then turned it forcefully few times...
So yeah, one connector needs wire-soldering.

Next, my oil kings are 5 pin, so off to the bathroom pick up my nail clipper and gonna clip those puppies.

[phinix]

Right. All done
I clipped all switches, then mounted them all and soldered to the pcb.
Lubed stabs a bit and mounted HSA Hyperfuse keycaps.
Feels nice, sounds good too - I guess I could do some sound modding later, maybe tape mod plus add some foam at the bottom part of the case.

Next, cable mod. I will look at some USB-C daughterboards and find out if it would be easy to file down the hole in the plastic case.

[fohat.digs]

stabbed the f***ing pcb with a soldering iron, straight into that f***ing hole. Then turned it forcefully few times.

Never done that, but I have felt like it a few times.

[phinix]

stabbed the f***ing pcb with a soldering iron, straight into that f***ing hole. Then turned it forcefully few times.

Never done that, but I have felt like it a few times.

It was worth it, I highly recommend!

[Rhienfo]

That de-soldering is a real pain in the ass!
I have to first solder more.. solder on those pins, as they soldered those switches really neatly, you can barely see the solder on those pins.
So first I'm adding more solder, then using solder sucker to get rid of it. Then of course not always works, I would say 50/50, then I need to re-do the whole process.
Sucker doesn't suck it all, most of the time leaves "solder painted" pin, enough to keep holding the switch in... aaagaggrrrrr
Few hours and I got rid of 18 switches 

I feel your pain of desoldering oem boards. I understand that lead fumes bad but would be so much more convenient and would make it so much easier for repairing boards and harvesting switches if they started to use leaded solder.

[fohat.digs]

started to use leaded solder.

A couple of years ago I found a 1 pound spool of "vintage" lead solder at a second-hand store. I bought it immediately.

[5443]

started to use leaded solder.

A couple of years ago I found a 1 pound spool of "vintage" lead solder at a second-hand store. I bought it immediately.

isnt lead solder normal? a search on ebay turns up this result as the first hit: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/354763196895?itmmeta=01J2220ED6CJHBC5KMRJ7GE9HN&hash=item529988c9df:g:JPgAAOSwX8NkR4fy&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4IC5pPSR7AHgqweOi39VFh4S6CWe8TwD2Hyy3%2F4UeGiveqKmqWOJgzl5QpuYdA7s9k4%2Bno6tNyV9z52XVGkR7Q298SCePed%2FfiGoAW%2FfvLYGReOIPdq2JuJkxwsv%2FJSz--P4aphYyGzSSgmp9Qc%2BSaJ0FNVzC%2BAabiXjnTrfxc8QALxlK%2FAOK3cUdq7YBFUBYnRHEJNV1Rj0BsaFHKZE3RxAz9QLuZpuy6vWI%2Bs8tpZs%2Bx8JG257z1OiqJCLgitYTRVi8m2qc2%2BJ2CH5dTm6T8eJgWsZR79qRcEvYy6%2FP%2Fex%7Ctkp%3ABFBM6uaBwpBk

[Rhienfo]

A couple of years ago I found a 1 pound spool of "vintage" lead solder at a second-hand store. I bought it immediately.

I use some kester no clean solder and it works just fine for me, still got a bunch of it.

isnt lead solder normal? a search on ebay turns up this result as the first hit: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/354763196895?itmmeta=01J2220ED6CJHBC5KMRJ7GE9HN&hash=item529988c9df:g:JPgAAOSwX8NkR4fy&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4IC5pPSR7AHgqweOi39VFh4S6CWe8TwD2Hyy3%2F4UeGiveqKmqWOJgzl5QpuYdA7s9k4%2Bno6tNyV9z52XVGkR7Q298SCePed%2FfiGoAW%2FfvLYGReOIPdq2JuJkxwsv%2FJSz--P4aphYyGzSSgmp9Qc%2BSaJ0FNVzC%2BAabiXjnTrfxc8QALxlK%2FAOK3cUdq7YBFUBYnRHEJNV1Rj0BsaFHKZE3RxAz9QLuZpuy6vWI%2Bs8tpZs%2Bx8JG257z1OiqJCLgitYTRVi8m2qc2%2BJ2CH5dTm6T8eJgWsZR79qRcEvYy6%2FP%2Fex%7Ctkp%3ABFBM6uaBwpBk

In the hobby yeah, like everyone I know uses leaded solder, but for commercial work like soldering keyboards no, it has something to do with either enviromental or worker safety. It's for the best but like it's annoying for people in this hobby.

Also just putting this out there would not reccomend these cheap solders, save up a bit more and by some kester no clean leaded solder. The price increase is worth it trust me on this.

[phinix]

Is there an easy way to solder USB-C female socket to that Filco cable? Like wire amount wise etc?

I used a usb-C extension cable, the one I used was usb 2.0 internally so basically I just snipped and soldered the correct colored wires one to one.

You just want (if you can) to find a 2.0 extension with type C connector otherwise you will have to figure out the right wires to connect, which isn't really that difficult if it comes down to it.

Leslieann, I got it!

Got the male mini USB 2.0 to female USB-C extension, cut out mini-USB plug and have USB-C female now with 4 wires.

Now, ordering one of these.

So now will have 4 wires from pig tail and 5 wires from JST plug. What should I do next? Which wire to ignore? 

[Leslieann]

It should be red to red(+), black to black(-), there is probably another that is a shield wire which is probably bare, you can wire that into the black.

The last two are the signal wires (probably) green and white, those to go the gray and white, however, which way is hard to say, try white to white/green to gray first and see if it works, if not, swap those around and test again.

[phinix]

It should be red to red(+), black to black(-), there is probably another that is a shield wire which is probably bare, you can wire that into the black.

The last two are the signal wires (probably) green and white, those to go the gray and white, however, which way is hard to say, try white to white/green to gray first and see if it works, if not, swap those around and test again.

JST wire came in.
Here are the wires on both sides.
Need to check how those wires look like inside standard Filco cable.

[phinix]

It should be red to red(+), black to black(-), there is probably another that is a shield wire which is probably bare, you can wire that into the black.

The last two are the signal wires (probably) green and white, those to go the gray and white, however, which way is hard to say, try white to white/green to gray first and see if it works, if not, swap those around and test again.

Just to make sure - I wont damage pcb if i connect incorrect wires and try it?

[TomahawkLabs]

I could see damage possible if pushing 5v into a data port. Quick google says red = positive, black = negative, white = data +, and green = data -.

[Leslieann]

I could see damage possible if pushing 5v into a data port. Quick google says red = positive, black = negative, white = data +, and green = data -.

Correct, so long and red and black are correct nothing will happen except a warning saying unknown USB device.

[phinix]

I could see damage possible if pushing 5v into a data port. Quick google says red = positive, black = negative, white = data +, and green = data -.

Correct, so long and red and black are correct nothing will happen except a warning saying unknown USB device.

OK, I will do it today, will keep you guys posted 

[phinix]

Well, apparently I bought wrong 5 pin plug, it was somehow too small compared to one that is in Filco.
So I decided to butcher the original cable. That 5th black wire must have been ground or something, I put it away as only needed 4 wires - all matched colors perfectly:)
All done, also did tape mod on the pcb.

Feels amazing and I like USB-C pig tail







Project completed

[Leslieann]

Looks good, the 5th wire is for the wire shielding but isn't that necessary with a plastic case.

[phinix]

Looks good, the 5th wire is for the wire shielding but isn't that necessary with a plastic case.

Thanks
Yep, it was going deeper, then after about 5-6cm it was stripped off and connected to shielding in thick main cable. So I just isolated it.

[tp4tissue]

Only a keyboard extremely secure with its own sexuality can wear a singular manly pigtail.

[phinix]

Only a keyboard extremely secure with its own sexuality can wear a singular manly pigtail.

Yeah, Filco is sexual enough for a pig tail